Wednesday, July 18, 2007

Manhattan

The Manhattan CocktailThus far on our little cocktail journey, we've danced around some of the classic cocktails without really addressing what could be considered as the two quintessential pre-prohibition cocktails, the Manhattan and the Martini. This week I'd like to present to you the older of these two cocktails, the Manhattan.

As with most cocktails, it is next to impossible to determine exactly how or when the Manhattan first came into existence but it was probably first concocted in New York City’s Manhattan Club, probably in 1881 or 1882. The recipe appears to have actually been served at a number of different clubs at the time, although at each club it took on a different name. At the Manhattan Club it was called the Manhattan, but at the Turf Club it would have been called the "Turf Club Cocktail", while at the Jockey Club you would order a "Jockey Club Cocktail".

Traditionally, a Manhattan Cocktail is made with rye whiskey. Unfortunately there is very little rye being made today, even though it used to be the most popular of the American whiskies. Prohibition brought about a slight switcheroo, with Canadian whisky becoming the common replacement for any drink previously being made with American whiskey, even to the point that to this day many bartenders will refer to Canadian whisky as "rye" even though it usually have very little rye in it at all (American rye whiskey has to be made with at least 51% rye grain, while bourbon has to be made with at least 51% corn).

Manhattan

  • 2 ounces rye or bourbon whiskey
  • 3/4 ounce sweet vermouth
  • 2 dashes Angostura bitters

Stir with ice, strain into a cocktail glass.
Garnish with a maraschino cherry.

Rye whiskey will have a sharper and spicier flavor then bourbon, and for that reason I usually recommend beginners use bourbon for making their Manhattans, at least at first. Maker's Mark, is a bourbon that I highly recommend for this purpose, and when you are ready for rye, I usually recommend Old Overholt, although there is going to be a new Sazerac rye coming on the market soon that should prove interesting.

For the vermouth, I normally use Noilly Pratt, although Martini & Rossi is also very good, just a little sweeter, and not quite as complex.

While I often see people ordering their Manhattans without bitters, I highly recommend that you always use bitters. Tasting with and without side by side clearly shows (to me anyway) that the one with bitters has a far better blending of flavors.

These days, most bartenders tend to shake everything that they make, which is truly a crime when it comes to the Manhattan. A shaken Manhattan will not only be cloudy in the glass, but it will also have an unappealing foam on the top. Not a lush and creamy foam as you'll find on a pint of Guinness, but a foam that reminds me of a slurry of wastewater. A properly made Manhattan should always be stirred, and never shaken.

As for the cherry, originally this garnish would have been a real cherry simply soaked in either brandy or maraschino liqueur. However prohibition overly popularized the neon red gems that we now refer to as maraschino cherries, and while they make a reasonable garnish here, I will often use either real imported maraschino cherries from Maraska, or I will soak dried bing cherries in brandy, and use those.