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a proper ‘collar’ |
Last week we discussed the importance of proper measurements of the individual ingredients going into a cocktail. Before we leave the notion of measurement behind, I'd like to provide some details on the flip side of this issue and cover the final measurements of the finished drink itself.
As I walk through the glassware aisles in various stores, I find a disturbing proliferation of oversized cocktail glasses (aka: Martini glasses). Far too often I see over-the-top 10 oz. glasses being presented to the customer, combine this with the fact that many people like their drinks to fill their glasses clear to the rim, and we have something to be disturbed about. Perhaps it's just the "bigger is better" mentality that we Americans always seem to have trouble with, but I feel it is important that we try to avoid heading this way with our cocktails. Besides the fact that a 10 oz. drink is just trouble waiting to happen, there are other reasons why smaller drinks are better.
- A smaller drink has a much better chance of staying cold clear to the last drop when it is smaller. Cocktails are meant to be cold, few cocktails really taste that good once they are allowed to warm up. Sure, I realize that it seems like you are getting a good bargain when your server sets down a two-fisted Martini in front of you, but if the drink gets warm and you end up leaving the last third of the drink in the glass, then where's the value in that?
- By having smaller drinks, of a more manageable size, you have the opportunity to have a couple of different drinks before you have to call it a night, instead of just the one. Cuisine is all about the taste experience, and I always think that it's great to get the chance to try a few different drinks to really enjoy the skills of the bartender serving you.
- Usually, a larger glass contains just the perception of getting more value for your dollar. Bars aren't in the charity business, and so they need to make their money back on these drinks. Which means either they are using cheaper products to make your drinks, or they are putting more fillers (water, cheap sour mix, juices) into your drink to bring it up to that eye-popping level.
I feel that the proper sized glassware for cocktails is a glass that can hold 6 to 7 ounces. And it's important to realize that this doesn't mean the glass is actually filled to that full amount. A properly poured drink will always leave a nice "collar" between the top of the drink, and the top of the glass. From a purely practical standpoint, this gives you a glass that you can easily walk around with without spilling a drop, much less just lift from the table to your lips. Again, this is a case where it might seem like filling it to the rim is a better bargain, but it's just not the way it is supposed to be done.
Just as a fine dining restaurant doesn't fill your wine glass to the rim, neither should you expect them to fill your cocktail glass. Trust them to know how to pour you the right amount to give you the right amount for your dollar, and also allow them to select the glassware that is the right size for their specific service needs.
In the early 1900's, before prohibition, the thought of a 6 ounce cocktail glass, much less a 10 ounce head-slapper was totally unthinkable. The common size for cocktail glasses topped out around 4 ounces. Check the scans below from a 1918 "Albert Pick" Saloon Catalog which shows cocktail glasses as small as 2-1/2 ounces, and on up to 4 ounces. (You'll note that the modern-day "Martini" glass has not yet made its appearance).
The Metropolitan Pattern:
The Lincoln Pattern:
