Woodford Reserve – The Labrot & Graham Distillery Tour

In a market generated by hype, the spirits industry’s fickle nature is often dominated by overall drink trends and popular perceptions of a super-premium status. Many brands have benefited from a public that associates quality with smoothness, creating a dominating demand for sweeter spirits. The traditional conception of American whiskey seemingly contradicts the sweeter social preference; however, the growth in mainstream popularity of bourbons like Woodford Reserve demonstrates the influence of trendy demands. Does this appeal to a sweeter, less harsh general palate negate quality? I don't think so, and I love Woodford Reserve.

Woodford Reserve is a bourbon. To legally carry this label, the whiskey must be made from at least 51% corn, distilled at no more than 160 proof, and barreled for at least two years in new charred oak barrels. The variation in bourbon production results from several sources including length of barreling, barrel and storage conditions, type of water used in cutting the bourbon, and distillation processes and amounts, but the most influential and basic difference among bourbons results from the other 49%. Woodford uses only 18% rye and adds 10% barley, cutting back on the spicey elements of the rye. The result is a bourbon that is milder and sweeter. While relatively few bourbons utilize the wheated approach, the popularity of those that do have surged over the past few decades. Makers Mark pioneered this approach with little success until recently; recognizing this growth in demand for a sweeter bourbon, Brown Foreman began producing Woodford Reserve. Other examples of wheated bourbons include W.L. Weller, Pappy Van Winkle, and Old Fitzgerald. While not a wheated bourbon, Woodford Reserve is clearly appealing to this market.

The Labrot & Graham Distillery is the oldest operating distillery in Kentucky and was purchased and remodeled for the specific purpose of producing a higher quality milder bourbon. While many promotional efforts, namely the Kentucky Derby, have targeted a more mainstream market, Woodford Reserve like any quality lighter gin, less peaty scotch, or vodka produced outside of grain or potatoes is a great product. I traditionally try to promote smaller distilleries on this blog, but “Spirit of the Week” is about spirits that I like – this is definitely one of them.

Unlike most Kentucky distillery tours, the Woodford tour will cost you five dollars, but you do get a tasting at the conclusion of the tour. So hey, just consider the fee to be like buying Woodford at your local dive bar with a decent selection type place. The tour is extremely informative and the tour guides definitely understood the process better than any of the other tours I have been on. The tour starts with a video on bourbon (generic stuff) and follows with a visit to the distillery, warehouse, and bottling plant.

The Distillery

Despite being an extremely old site and building, the inside of the distillery is by far the most modern of any distillery in Kentucky. Computers are everywhere monitoring every aspect of the process. Everything is new; after being told so much about the history of the site at the onset of the tour, the evident modern approach takes away from the nostalgic conception of bourbon production.

Most notably, three large copper pot stills help to meet the ongoing demands of this major corporate brand. The sizes of the copper stills are enormous; to the left the distillation process is controlled and viewed through a glass casing. The distillery tour also covers barrel production and describes the importance of using new, charred American oak barrels to allow for the bourbon to take some of the burnt woods properties.

The Warehouse

The warehouse is less-remodeled and remains relatively unchanged, letting nature work her magic on the inside of the barrels. Woodford Reserve really picks up a lot from barreling, namely its vanilla tones. Additionally, Woodford is not barrel for a predetermined period. Instead, the batches are tested throughout maturation until a level of quality is reached. Other bourbons establish a specific time period, which can result in greater variation over periods of time. Different climate periods require varying barreling lengths to maintain consistency. Woodford Reserve utilizes this approach extremely effectively, improving its palate potential and creating another contention for the argument of its quality.

The Bottling Plant

The bottling plant was not operating during the tour, but in the bottling plant, we were allowed to smell Woodford Reserve at barrel strength. I could smell the Woodford Reserve all day after that experience. Bourbons are cut by water after barreling to a lower proof, which takes away from some of the flavor of the bourbon, but it does make it drinkable. Taking away from the corporate feel of Woodford was our tour companion, Elijah – the Labrot & Graham Distillery cat. I think this cat enjoyed bourbon with his mice because this had to be the friendliest cat I have ever met. He followed during the entire tour and expected to be pet from each member of our 20+ group.

Woodford Reserve is a great product produced by a quality distillery. While wheated bourbons and other milder approaches, such as that utilized by Woodford Reserve, seem to be trading the popularity of critics for that of conventional consumers, failing to see these bourbons as anything but an alternative approach in the wide spectrum of bourbon production is a mistake. Appreciation of bourbon requires an appreciation of all perspectives – even those that are created to make money off of popular trends. Trends often sacrifice quality, but popularity and quality are not mutually exclusive.

Posted by Robert Heugel